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Heading off to Ottawa today. Woke up to a beautiful sight of big, fat snowflakes floating down to the ground. Beautiful as there really isn't any wind - the flakes jsut kind of 'dance' around in the sky before nestling over the trees and rooftops.
On my way to the train I have this extremely frustrtating loop in my head, which goes somthing like this:
"Na na na na.....
Na na na na.....
Walking in a Winter Wonderland"
(Repeat AdNauseum)
I have no idea of the words, or how the actual tune goes - which makes it even more frustrating!
(I'm not sure where they justify the $3.75 in that fine - you'd reckon a round 50 bucks would serve the point...)
This brings us back to about 4 posts ago - where I talk about glamorous Ottawa...
There. Now that wasn't so bad was it?!
See ya in London.
Allrighty!
What can say aboot Quebec?
Well, it's definately worth a sided trip, perhaps 2 days is a better minimum; then you have time to see outside the city walls.
It really is full of history, lovely narrow, cobble-stone streets everywhere, with spectacular architecture from the 1600's to the early 1900's. The tourist factor isn't quite as evideent during the winter, which is probably a good thing - I could easily see myself hating the place when it's packed with camera clickers!
The fortifications combinedd with high cliffs and the rapidly flowing St Lawrence, (full of ice-bergs) really make a dramatic setting,
Had a coffee inn the wonderful, extrtremely prominent Chateau Frontenac, with it's dramatic steep gable copper roofs and stone walls. Everything within the city's walls are dramatic; La Citadelle, Basilica Notre-Dame (complete with gold altar), hundreds of cannons, the sheer engineering brilliance of building a fortification on what is essentially a cliff!
So yeah, there we have it - like Niagra falls, the tourist factor is there, but there's a reason for that...They're pretty impressive places...
I'm in love with Montreal already. Wandered from the station to the hostel which is right in the middle of Vieux Montreal. All the old buildings I've been searching for in other cities - there's an entire city (well, section of) full of them! In fact, I'm actually living in one now.
The hostel is an old building on Rue St Pierre, amongst boutique shops and restaurants and all that. It's basically a converteed warhouse (warehouse even), over 4 levels. Very funky.
Quebec is a French province and everyone here speaks it first and foremost. (The most halting English I encountered was from s'one from the Tourist Info centre!)
I feel like I'm in a foreign country finally.
Mark has been right. But words wouldn't describe how right. Montreal really does shit all over Toronto. The general vibe and heart (corny, I know) of the city alone makes this a great place.
Sitting in a cafe on Rue St Paul watching the people go by, enjoying a baguette and espresso, I almost could be in Paris. (If I knew what Paris was like that is!)
My one year of French back in year 7 isn't really proving much terribly useful - I've managed a few greetings/responses here and there, but nothing of any great worth!
Now, I've decided, is the time to start brushing up on my just as poor Italian!
I've decided that I need to spend longer in one city! The Austrtalian accent seems to have a positive affect on Canadian girls further east - (considering there's more Aussies than locals in the west, I can see the reverse effect there...)
Had two gorgeous girls displaying 'interest' in me in Winnipeg and Toronto - unfortunately, not really spending enough time to make any real impression.
(Cue: Violin music..............)
I have to disagree with Mark. The price in Toronto reflects that of Sydney, but not the attitude. Either that, or I just haven't experiencecd it.
In contrast, having said that, the people of the 'Peg' are some of the nicest people around. Hospitality started as I walked from the train station to the hostel. Woman offers me a lift there considering the cold. (Turns out she used to teach at Elsternwick Primary) Small world.
I've written my first music since leaving Melbourne. Dreamt up some riffs and immediately wrote them down once I woke up. That's a first for me. Hopfully they turn out allright.
WINNIPEG
Arrival Winnipeg: -18d, wind chill = -25d.
Depart Winnipeg: -20d, wind chill = -40d. (Frostbite likely in minutes)
In other words; COLD BEYOND DESCRIPTION!!!
Winnipeg is a beautiful city, a small town that doesn't attempt to portray itself as anything but. Population hovering around 700,000, a small, walkable downtown area which is litteredd with historic buildings.
The Exchange district is a bit like Gastown in Vancouver, minus the glitzy, touristy feel to it.
There's a lot of history to this city, and the people aren't afraid to show it off. Buildings everywhere preserved and continually used...
They haven't been converted into merely tourist venues, they're places like cafes, restaurant, thrift stores, etc.
The arts scene appears to be moving along nicely here. Far from being a country town, there is the WSO, ballet, numerous theatre companies, university papers, arts festivals... Perhaps the French influence has helped it alot.
St Boniface just over the river is the main Western French quarter - it's like a quaint little village - esp. with the snow covered streets and trees.
Walking back to downtown across the river was a nerve-racking experience for me... Despite the fact the ice is very thick - perhaps 1/2 metre or so - every little creak makes you nervous. Perhaps when you realise that beneath you is deep, running, freekin freezing water directly underneath you. With the safety of the riverbanks 50 metres either side of you.
I know I'm being fairly pathetic here, but there you go.
EDMONTON
Edmonton was everything I'd hope it'd be. And worse!
Hooked up with a guy (also travelling by train) from Germany. The directions to follow were close to impossible.
Picture this:
2 blokes, 1 German, 1 Australian, pitch dark, loaded up with parcels of shit, running across snow-covered train tracks just on the outskirts of an airport of an entirely foreign city...
Yes, we did get some strtange looks from the crew of the train.
(Note to people - part. Mark: that was the direction we were given...)
"Nice Pussy..."
I'm not entirely sure the exact significance of this phrase but I put it in my jottings for an apparently obvious reason. (At least at the time it was obvious...)
Over 24 hours of travelling has done my head in. Getting a few strange looks from my chuckling to myself. Stupid things like: "Please remain seated until the bus is fully parked"
*As opposed to half-ly parked?!*
Lame, yes I know - but I have to pass the time somehow. Esp. since I'm too stingy to pay the $3 to hear the movie.
"Fanny Fabrics"
(ditto the pussy thing...)
CALGARY/EDMONTON
Turns out I had 8 minutes to spare. (From my email where I said I had a few seconds to spare...)
I literally got to the train 8 minutes before departure.
Coach from Calgary arriveed at 5:30. Train leaves at 6:20.
No problem right?
Waited about 10 minutes for first city bus to some remote mall, to see my connecting bus there pull away as we arrive...(What's the point - I ask you - of scheduling connecting buses to leave before the other buses ariive at the transfer point?!)
Of course, because of fucked-up Sat. timetable, next bus doesn't leave for 1/2 hr.
(Yes, you guessed it - far too late my lovely readers...)
I bite the bullet and walk round to front of mall in hopes of finding a cab. (Of course the bus stop is at the rear.)
The brick wall of the mall keeps going round and round and round (with the occasional glimpse into a barred up mall entrance)...
I'm starting to panic.
Round about this time the fact I can no longer feel my fingers has become a subject rising in priority compared to catching train.
Why were my fingers numb you ask?
Because, (and I swear this is no exaggeration) there is a typically gale force prarie wind blowing in -20 degrees.
FUCK!
As a postscript; yes I did manage to reach the train, literally with 8 minutes to spare...
THE END.
MELBOURNE
Fire in Melbourne! There's a very distinct smell of smoke in the waiting lounge before I head for LA. The sight of one of those enormous copters circling above and around the airport somewhat relieves the tedium of sitting around doing nothing...
Boarding brings out all the characters; including a fat Johnny Farnham lookalike...
Met a lovely girl, Kelly, as my travelling companion for the next 13 hours or so.
The sunrise over LA was fantastic! Started with the dep orange sun peaking over the clouds at about 20,000 feet, then descending through the clkouds to find it breaking over the Hollywood hills and snow-smothered mountains behind.
VANCOUVER
Fast forward a week or so...
Travelling on the Canadian, (train to Toronto). I've been dished out the "assisant saftey guy" (not, I believe, the official title) in the event of evacuation. Which means I get to break glass and operate the stair thingy's an' everything. (If I'm not dead, that is, didn't ask that)
The north American's are so obsessed withsafety to the point of being ridiculous. Having said that - the train guy showed me how to open the stair thing as we were hurtling along at a great rate... Standing between the carriages and watching the ground very ominously close considering my position at the time...
My stay in BC, or more to the point, Vancouver, was great. Saw lots of stuff - some impressive, some beautiful, some interesting, some stupid and some just plain touristy. The weather for the most part was reaslly good. The last three days were hovering around 11 degrees. Not bad for a Canadian winter. I can cope with that temp!
Edmonton's expecting about 0-1 degree. It's not affected by warm air coming from the Rockie's that Calgary is subjected to. Contrary to Emile's way - I've decided asking for directions will be a good idea from there. Edmonton's the last place I want to spend around dusk.
to be continued...
I went to the nation's capitol today: 'Ottawa' (which according to Mum last night I said in a Canadian accent - go figure)
Based on reports from people who've been to Canberra, seems like it's pretty much the same...
I can safely say that there's really not a hell of a lot to do in the city. Luckily, I was only there for the day.
Chat, you'll be pleased to know I didn't see a single Aussie today at all. The closest I came was a run-in with an advertisment for Foster's in (i think) an English theme pub.
What was I doing in an English themed pub you ask? (I you didn't ask that, stiff. I'm gunna talk about it anyway) 'Twas warming up my frozen hands with a cold beer.
Shut-up.
It makes perfect sense in a town called Ottawa.
What else....Oh yeah. Chat, Seachange is showing in Canada. Stumbled across it one night in Van. Actually, 'stumble' is really not the right verb. Considering I was sitting on a couch at the time. (At about 11pm on channel 28 I think. So there you og. Read: 'go'.)
My brains suddenly turned to mush now so I'm gunna fuck off and let you Aussie's fry in 40 degree heat.
Happy Invasion Day.
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie! Oi! Oi! Oi!
It's New Years Eve, after a beautiful sunny morning, (Van. is about the most gorgeous city on the face of the planet!) the clouds took over and the temperature dropped several degrees. (I think I just felt some sleet just before!)
The culture shock didn't set in (that Luc talked about when getting off the plane) until last night at dinner. I felt particularly alone and as far away from Melbourne as I am... Finding some partying company for New Years will prove to be a bit of a challenge in the current timeframe.
Anyway! seen quite a lot of downtown already, been to markets, train stations, been on the subway, "Skytrain"?! - why on earth is a subway called "Skytrain"?!, and all that. The Polar Bear swim is tomorrow afternoon - I dont think I'll be competing - they have to swim 90 yards into the ocean and back. In January. Obviously you have to be very stupid to do that kind of thing.
I'll be meeting up with some family friends (hopfully!) tomorrow and will have a very cheap bed and some nice food to eat. Will be very nice. Starting to get a bit worried about the cold - given that Van is the warmer part of Canada!
Will be headed for coldville, (namely the middle of Canada) on the 5th.
